
Show Notes
Fashion thrives on newness but resists change, celebrates young designers yet makes survival nearly impossible. Olya Kuryshchuk, founder of 1Granary, knows this contradiction well. What began as a student-run blog at Central Saint Martins has become one of the industry’s most unfiltered voices, exposing the gaps between talent, opportunity, and success. In this episode, Kuryshchuk unpacks why magazine editors are shifting to brand consulting, how ageism shapes studio culture, and why true innovation isn’t about aesthetics but structure, sustainability, and survival. With characteristic candor, she lays bare fashion’s broken pipeline, the illusion of overnight success, and what it actually takes to build a lasting career today. "What’s contemporary now? Long-term thinking. Creating with intention. The industry is obsessed with speed, but the future belongs to those who build for longevity." - Olya Kuryshchuk
Episode Highlights:
The Birth of 1Granary – What started as a student project at Central Saint Martins became a global fashion education platform.
The Reality of Fashion Education – A degree from a top school doesn’t guarantee success—80% of graduates don’t find jobs in the industry.
Acting as a Designer Union – 1Granary advocates for young designers, exposing industry flaws and providing career guidance.
The Power of Community – Success in fashion isn’t just about talent; strategic relationships and collaborations shape careers.
Why Editors Are Moving to Brand Consulting – Traditional media salaries are low, while brands offer better pay and creative freedom.
Ageism in Fashion – Studios are filled with designers under 30, and career paths for women over 40 are nearly nonexistent.
The Industry’s Broken Pipeline – Young designers either join big brands or struggle to launch their own—a middle path is missing.
The Harsh Truth About Fashion’s Business Model – Many emerging designers can’t sustain their brands, despite industry hype.
Fashion’s Double Standard on Sustainability – Big brands have the power to create real change, but it’s indie designers who often lead the charge.
What’s Contemporary Now? – Long-term thinking—in an industry obsessed with speed, real impact comes from sustainability and intention.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
More from What's Contemporary Now?
Alastair McKimm returns to What’s Contemporary Now?, this time on camera, to discuss life after 23 years at i-D and the launch of Prototype, a new creative venture bringing publishing, product design, and creative services under one roof. Now also Chief Creative Officer of Visual Talent Group (VTG), McKimm reflects on building a new model for creative businesses, his work with Gap, Marc Jacobs, and Miley Cyrus, and the role of curation in navigating an increasingly saturated world. From editing creative work to editing our own lives, we explore instinct, ambition, insecurity, and the challenge of sustaining a career without losing sight of ourselves.
It’s all about the Big Willy energy these days. What was once an independent, primarily menswear label showing at New York Fashion Week has become a full-blown fashion brand known for staging high-quality productions and often politically charged shows during the Paris men’s collections. The paradox of Willy Chavarria is that, despite the wide reach of his media storms, he’s still being discovered by new audiences even now. The illusion of overnight success is almost always backed by stories of hard work, an enduring willingness to prevail, and a commitment to learning everything one can along the way. His story strikes all of the favorite chords in any good human interest story: growing up as an outsider, learning to live with no regrets, and realizing that we always stand to benefit from thinking big.
As one of the first brands to democratize luxury fashion, H&M helped reshape the relationship between designer creativity and the wider public. From its landmark collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld in 2004, they’ve brought the creative genius of Versace, Margiela, Comme des Garçons, and countless others to the masses. A model that today reigns supreme when it comes to commonly practiced brand strategy and reaching key consumer touchpoints. Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s Creative Advisor and Head of Design Womenswear, has been central to this evolution, along with playing a role in the brand’s dedication to nurturing emerging talent, with the return of the H&M Design Award taking place this November.
Copenhagen Fashion Week marks its 20th anniversary at a moment when the fashion system is being asked to account for itself. In conversation with CEO Cecilie Thorsmark and COO Isabella Rose Davey, this episode examines how a regional fashion week evolved into a platform with global influence, and what that evolution reveals about the future of the industry.
With a quick trip to Copenhagen for the city's 20th anniversary fashion week, we will be attending the shows, interviewing the organizers, and participating on a panel with Vogue business to explore the idea of what a magazine is today. Their impressive programming, in addition to the designers, includes an impressive array of subject matter that warrants a timely exploration and we'll be back on Monday with a full episode sharing all of the juicy details. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices