EP25: Matt Burgess | Coaches Tips to Prevent Burnout

This week we are Hanging with Matt Burgess. I first heard about Matt when someone tagged me in a post of his. Matt was a large advocate for protecting the land around Mt Alexander allowing it to recover from the first that tore through the community last summer. As a local to Castelmaine VIC, Matt was deeply effected by the fires seeing first hand what they can do to communities, wildlife and nature in general. If you take anything from this episode, tread lightly on the land we are so incredibly lucky to walk upon. He's also a mad as coach and got to ask him some questions around his philosophies and avoiding burnouts!

LINKS ⁠⁠👉 Support the Climbers Fund⁠ ⁠⁠👉 View Dosage Mug⁠ ⁠⁠👉 Instagram⁠ ⁠⁠👉 Youtube⁠

GUEST LINKS 📸 Peak Performance Coaching 📸 Matt's Instagram

CHAPTERS 0:00:00 Intro and the spray wall in Castlemaine 0:01:16 Why Castlemaine? Living closer to the climbing 0:02:39 Mount Alexander and the access post 0:04:21 Ethics, access and the impact of the fires 0:08:03 How long to wait before heading back in 0:12:03 Living through the January fires in Castlemaine 0:17:22 Disaster tourism and the “green tick” mentality 0:18:37 A growing climbing population and getting ahead on ethics 0:20:40 Leave No Trace and leading by example 0:21:32 Mentorship and passing down crag ethics 0:24:34 Education through gyms, workshops and posters 0:25:19 Discipline equals freedom 0:26:17 Developing boulders and connecting with the land 0:30:11 What to look for when finding new boulders 0:31:54 Highballs and the proudest line 0:33:03 From trad and sport to bouldering 0:34:35 Highballing Beanstalk in the Grampians 0:37:43 Would you coach a highball? 0:39:11 Controlling fear with exposure 0:42:56 The beta bubble and visualising the feeling 0:44:29 Redpoint nerves and low-pointing 0:48:03 Showing up for more than the send 0:50:43 Coaching philosophy: volume and consolidation 0:53:37 The V10 siege vs the volume climber 0:57:26 Media and the hidden volume behind big sends 0:58:58 Choosing the right project for your style 1:00:36 Grade hopping and dipping your toes in 1:11:59 Organic vs structured climbing 1:16:40 Injury, identity and the long middle 1:21:49 Finding control: cooking, hold making and values 1:25:54 How injury made a more compassionate coach 1:28:14 Identity, the podcast and protecting your climbing 1:33:05 Organic vs structured and attachment to climbing 1:34:42 Best bang-for-buck warm-up routine 1:38:16 Closing thoughts and thanks 1:39:20 Climbing on each other’s boards 1:42:35 Where to find Peak Performance Climbing

KEYWORDS climbing podcast, The Hangout, Australian climbing, bouldering, Mount Alexander, Harcourt, Castlemaine, Victoria, bushfire recovery, climbing access, crag ethics, Leave No Trace, climbing community, mentorship, boulder development, highball, Beanstalk, Grampians, climbing coaching, mental performance, fear management, exposure therapy, visualisation, redpoint, low-pointing, projecting, V10, volume and consolidation, grade hopping, organic vs structured training, climbing injury, identity and climbing, warm-up routine, home board, spray wall, Peak Performance Climbing