
Show Notes
Few figures have shaped fashion’s visual language like Marie-Amélie Sauvé. From her formative years at French Vogue to her lasting collaborations with Nicolas Ghesquière, she has navigated an industry that thrives on change while staying true to her creative convictions.
In this episode, Sauvé reflects on the golden era of editorial freedom, the founding of her own magazine, Mastermind, and why true innovation demands risk. She also shares how yoga sharpens her creative discipline, why she gravitates toward brands in need of reinvention, and what she believes is fashion’s biggest challenge today.
A rare glimpse into the mind of one of the industry's most influential yet elusive figures.
"Mastermind isn’t just about fashion. It’s about cinema, architecture, politics—because if you only look at fashion, you miss the bigger picture." - Marie-Amélie Sauvé
Episode Highlights:
Growing up with fashion in France – Fashion was as much a part of daily life as literature and gastronomy in her upbringing, shaping her early perspective.
Landing an internship at French Vogue – Her mother’s love for fashion led to an opportunity at Vogue Paris, where she was first exposed to industry legends like André Leon Talley, Helmut Newton, and Guy Bourdin.
The golden era of French Vogue – Describes the unparalleled creative freedom of the magazine at the time, where editors and photographers could push boundaries without advertiser interference.
Why she left Vogue to go freelance – She wanted a deeper understanding of how clothes were made and how designers shaped the industry, rather than just styling full looks in editorials.
How yoga shapes her creative process – She practices Iyengar yoga daily, valuing its emphasis on precision and discipline, which mirrors her approach to fashion and creative direction.
Why she created Mastermind – She wanted a magazine that balanced fashion with architecture, politics, cinema, and philosophy, giving equal weight to journalism and imagery.
The longstanding creative relationship with Nicolas Ghesquière – She and Nicolas "grew up together" in the industry, sharing an obsession with research, reinvention, and pushing creative boundaries.
Why true innovation requires risk – She reflects on how the most memorable fashion moments come from pushing boundaries, rather than playing it safe within industry expectations.
Fashion’s democratic shift – Acknowledges that while fashion is now more accessible, standing out requires an even stronger creative perspective and sense of individuality.
What’s contemporary now? – Time. In an era of constant acceleration, she believes the most valuable thing is having enough time to slow down, focus, and create with intention.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
More from What's Contemporary Now?
Alastair McKimm returns to What’s Contemporary Now?, this time on camera, to discuss life after 23 years at i-D and the launch of Prototype, a new creative venture bringing publishing, product design, and creative services under one roof. Now also Chief Creative Officer of Visual Talent Group (VTG), McKimm reflects on building a new model for creative businesses, his work with Gap, Marc Jacobs, and Miley Cyrus, and the role of curation in navigating an increasingly saturated world. From editing creative work to editing our own lives, we explore instinct, ambition, insecurity, and the challenge of sustaining a career without losing sight of ourselves.
It’s all about the Big Willy energy these days. What was once an independent, primarily menswear label showing at New York Fashion Week has become a full-blown fashion brand known for staging high-quality productions and often politically charged shows during the Paris men’s collections. The paradox of Willy Chavarria is that, despite the wide reach of his media storms, he’s still being discovered by new audiences even now. The illusion of overnight success is almost always backed by stories of hard work, an enduring willingness to prevail, and a commitment to learning everything one can along the way. His story strikes all of the favorite chords in any good human interest story: growing up as an outsider, learning to live with no regrets, and realizing that we always stand to benefit from thinking big.
As one of the first brands to democratize luxury fashion, H&M helped reshape the relationship between designer creativity and the wider public. From its landmark collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld in 2004, they’ve brought the creative genius of Versace, Margiela, Comme des Garçons, and countless others to the masses. A model that today reigns supreme when it comes to commonly practiced brand strategy and reaching key consumer touchpoints. Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s Creative Advisor and Head of Design Womenswear, has been central to this evolution, along with playing a role in the brand’s dedication to nurturing emerging talent, with the return of the H&M Design Award taking place this November.
Copenhagen Fashion Week marks its 20th anniversary at a moment when the fashion system is being asked to account for itself. In conversation with CEO Cecilie Thorsmark and COO Isabella Rose Davey, this episode examines how a regional fashion week evolved into a platform with global influence, and what that evolution reveals about the future of the industry.
With a quick trip to Copenhagen for the city's 20th anniversary fashion week, we will be attending the shows, interviewing the organizers, and participating on a panel with Vogue business to explore the idea of what a magazine is today. Their impressive programming, in addition to the designers, includes an impressive array of subject matter that warrants a timely exploration and we'll be back on Monday with a full episode sharing all of the juicy details. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices