Why We're Obsessed With The '90s (It's Not Nostalgia) | Mary Portas
The Fashion Brand Clinic PodcastShow Notes
"Take care of the collection, and push the brand." Mary Portas on the only two levers a fashion brand needs, what really happens when the money men take over, and the Barbie window that nearly cost her her job. I have been sitting on this one for months. This is the closing conversation from Fashion Marketing Live, and my guest was Mary Portas. Yes, that Mary Portas. Mary Queen of Shops. The woman who walked into a loss-making Harvey Nichols at 28 and helped turn it into the most talked-about shop in London. Her agent asked me to send the questions in advance, so I printed them onto gorgeous little cards. Then, just before we walked on stage, Mary waved her hand and said, "Forget everything you've prepared." So this is less an interview and more Mary going wherever the energy takes her. There's swearing, there are very strong opinions, and I loved every second. What we cover: Why everyone's suddenly obsessed with the '90s, and why Mary says it isn't nostalgia. It's longing for connection, community and tribes.
The three things that have changed how people buy since COVID, and why your brand needs trust and desire in the same mix.
"Everything you do is a risk." The advice Mary gave a reader of her newsletter, and why her biggest mistakes came when logic or the finance guys took over.
Giving free shows to McQueen and Philip Treacy at Harvey Nichols, and the catwalk that had to lose three inches overnight.
What happens when the money men take over, and Mary's take on what really killed Topshop. As a former Miss Selfridge girly, I had feelings.
The bit to screenshot: you can never push high enough when it comes to branding. Nobody wants to feel "accessible".
The two levers. Take care of the collection, then push the brand. Your customers will never, ever tell you how far to go.
The Barbie window: thousands of dolls nailed to the back wall, protests outside, and a phone call from Anita Roddick.
From the audience Q&A: her hardest Mary Queen of Shops moment, why every founder needs mentors, and the three words Nigella gave her for when the press comes after you.
Find Mary Portas (her agency): weareportas.com
Newsletter: The Portas POV. Sign up on the weareportas.com homepage.
Instagram: @maryportasofficial · Portas: @weareportas
Her book: I Shop, Therefore I Am: The '90s, Harvey Nicks – and Me (Canongate). I'm a big fan of the audiobook.
Mentioned in this episode Work Like a Woman by Mary Portas
Barbara Kruger's I Shop Therefore I Am
Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion at the Design Museum
Tony's Chocolonely and B Corp
Acne Studios and Acne Paper
Come to Fashion Marketing Live 2027 Wish you'd been in the room? Fashion Marketing Live is back on Monday 15 March 2027. The first one sold out in 24 hours, so get on the waitlist → elizabethstiles.co.uk/2027-fashion-marketing-event More from Elizabeth Free resources → elizabethstiles.co.uk/freebies
The Fashion Feed: my free weekly newsletter and Facebook group
The Scaling Project: six months of 1:1 mentoring for established, VAT-registered brands → elizabethstiles.co.uk/level-up
This episode is sponsored by Katie Farrell Did you know email should be bringing in at least 30% of your total turnover? Katie Farrell E-Consultant plans, writes, designs and sends Klaviyo campaigns for Shopify fashion brands, and keeps improving the flows that make you money in the background. Book an audit or enquire about working with Katie and her team → katiefarrell-econsultant.com/podcast
Instagram: @itskatiefarrell
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