Show Notes
Robert Ossant Author and fashion historian Robert Ossant hails from Lancashire and moved to London to work in newspapers, getting his big break at the Daily Mirror. Feeling disillusioned with tabloid life, he joined London embroidery house Hand & Lock as their communications manager in 2013. It was at the 258-year-old atelier that he became close friends with co-author Jessica Jane Pile and developed his love and passion for embroidery. Regularly inspired by the designers, artisans, makers and artists he met, Robert enrolled at night school and completed a Master’s in the History of Art. Now, equipped with cultural studies insights and academic frameworks, he applies the tools of art analysis and interpretation to all areas of the fashion industry. From haute couture catwalk show analysis to researching Queen Victoria’s wardrobe, his interests and expertise span both contemporary and historical style. Now based in France, his freelance work has appeared in Vogue, Marie Claire, Selvedge, The Independent, Forbes and Newsweek, and he has worked with international fashion brands including McQueen, Saint Laurent, Gucci and Balenciaga. He has also spoken at the World Embroidery Conference, the Chelsea Flower Show and the National Gallery on embroidery as a vital expression of art. Whether researching, writing or talking about embroidery, he brings personality, humour and intellectual rigour - making an often-overlooked artistic expression feel vivid, relevant and alive. Jessica Jane Pile Born in Kent, Jessica Jane Pile is an author, designer, educator and technical embroidery specialist based in London. After graduating from the Royal Central School of Speech and Drama with a degree in Costume construction for Performance, she joined historic embroidery house Hand & Lock. Within a few years, she was appointed Managing Director, becoming the youngest person to hold that role. During her twelve-year tenure, she relaunched the embroidery school, expanded the annual embroidery competition into a globally recognised art and fashion event, and managed complex commissions for major fashion houses including Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Dior and Vivienne Westwood. She also worked on large-scale, high-profile embroidery projects for the 2012 London Olympics, The Diamond Jubilee and Kings Coronation. In 2018 while working at Hand & Lock, she authored Fashion Embroidery: Embroidery Techniques and Inspiration for Haute‑Couture Clothing, drawing on her deep knowledge of high-level embroidery. The book’s success led to a demand for a follow-up, and Jess approached Robert to bring ‘The Art of Couture Embroidery’ to life In 2023, she left Hand & Lock to found Norica Studios, an embroidery studio focusing on bespoke embroidery for interior design and fashion. The business she runs with her sister Eleanor, and they are currently developing a new product range launching in 2026. Whether leading projects, teaching or writing, she combines technical skill with a calm, confident tone that has made her a trusted voice in contemporary embroidery. Photographer credit is: Michael Barrow https://www.instagram.com/michaelbarrowphoto/ Robert and Jess's new book, The Art of Couture Embroidery, is available from 6th November in the UK https://amzn.to/3J9UtXc School of Stitchex Textiles's course details are at https://www.sofst.org/
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Sayali Goyal is a visual artist and ethnographer. She creates abstract expressions on textiles and paper based on her research into material cultures. Her two bodies of work, 'Ether' (created in Jaipur and inspired by the colours of the old city, the symbolism of tantric paintings and the craft of block printing) and 'Indigo' (inspired by the pigment's colour, the process of natural dye and alchemy), have been exhibited at the Japan Foundation, British Council, Kathiwada City House, Jaipur Art Week, Kamladevi Gallery IIC as well as Melina Finkelstein Gallery in California. Her inspirations stem from inner worlds. Sayali is also the author of 'Everyday Indian Aesthetic,' published by Roli Books in 2024, and the Founding Editor of Cocoa and Jasmine magazine. Her ongoing projects examine collaborative methods with artisans across borders and the symbolism of shared identity. Sayali has furthered her practice by curating artist x artisan residencies in Punjab, India, and by curating textile installations, such as 'Safed' at Nehru Centre, Ministry of Culture (India), London, UK. https://www.cocoaandjasmine.com/zine/ether-the-fifth-element https://www.instagram.com/cocoaandjasmine/ School of Stitched Textiles https://www.sofst.org/
Diana Springall, who has just been awarded an MBE for services to arts and crafts, is one of Britain's most respected textile artists, teachers and champions of embroidery and I am delighted to have been invited to her home to look around her amazing collection of embroidered pieces and record this podcast episode with her. She has dedicated her life not only to creating extraordinary embroidery, but also to ensuring that the rich history of British stitch is preserved for generations to come. Diana is also a collector of the work of other embroidery and textile artists. Over many decades she has assembled what is widely regarded as one of the world's finest collections of British embroidery and stitch-based textile art, a collection that began simply because she wanted inspiring examples to show her own students. Now, that remarkable collection is destined to find a permanent home at the Sunbury Embroidery Gallery, which has ambitious plans to become a national centre for embroidery, with exhibition spaces, workshops and study facilities dedicated to celebrating this wonderful craft. Planning permission has been secured, but fundraising continues to make that vision a reality. When I visited Diana at her beautiful home in Kent, I found someone who was incredibly welcoming and generous with her knowledge and time and whose passion for embroidery, education and community remains every bit as inspiring today as it has throughout her remarkable career. If you've enjoyed hearing Diana's story and would like to learn more about the Sunbury Embroidery Gallery and its plans to create a permanent home for her internationally significant collection, you'll find details below. It's a project that deserves the support of everyone who cares about the future of embroidery. If you'd like to make a much needed and appreciated donation to the building fund via, then you can contact the management team directly via email at [email protected] or by calling 01932 788101. They can provide the charity’s direct bank details for a secure BACS/bank transfer donation. Alternatively, we can also supply bank details to you directly - please drop us a line at [email protected]. You can view The Diana Springall MBE collection at https://dianaspringallcollection.co.uk/ School of Stitched Textiles www.sofst.org
Whether you're new to mindfulness or have an established practice, you'll find plenty to reflect on as we explore the fascinating relationship between textile arts, creativity, well-being and mindful living. Mary Ann shares how knitting, textile making, yoga and mindfulness have become deeply interconnected in her own creative life. Together, we discuss how the simple act of making can help us slow down, become more present, and create moments of calm in an increasingly busy world. We also explore the role that creativity can play in supporting our mental and emotional well-being, and why so many of us are drawn to the quiet, rhythmic nature of stitching, knitting and other textile crafts. Whether you embroider, quilt, knit, crochet, weave, spin, or simply enjoy working with textiles, I think you'll find plenty of inspiration in Mary Ann's thoughtful approach to creative practice. So, make yourself comfortable, perhaps pick up your latest project, and enjoy my conversation with Mary Ann Gebhardt. Instagram https://www.instagram.com/mary_ann_gebhardt/ Facebook https://www.facebook.com/maryann.lynchgebhardt/ Mary Ann is the author of Knitting Meditation: The 40-Day Journal, a reflective guide inviting makers to explore the meditative and restorative qualities of their craft. School of Stitched Textiles https://www.sofst.org/
Jan trained as a painter and since the 1960’s has been a practicing textile artist. As an Honorary Member of the 62 group of Textile artist, a Fellow of the Society of Designer Craftsmen, she has exhibited and sold work in the UK and overseas. All forms of landscape are a constant challenge and inspiration for her work. Jan has taught drawing and textiles in the UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Israel and Europe. She was joint Chief Examiner for the City and Guilds Institute for Embroidery. She has written many books, including those written with her friend and colleague Jean Littlejohn. They founded Double Trouble Enterprises in 1997 to promote drawing and all aspects of textiles. Jan will be exhibiting work in the Exhibition, ‘Stitch Unbound 2026’ at the Willow Gallery, CIC, 56 Willow Street, Oswestry SY11 1AD, 4th July – 29th August and hopefully with the SDC in London in November. Website www.doubletroubleenterprises.com Instagram https://www.instagram.com/doubletroublejanjeanofficial/ School of Stitched Textiles https://www.sofst.org/
Victoria is a qualified artist and educator, holding an MA in Contemporary Fine Art and a Masters-level PGCE in Art and Creative Practice. Since 2021, she has been teaching through her own creative business, Little House of Victoria, where she shares her passion for textiles and storytelling. You may recognise Victoria from her embroidery kit demonstrations on Sewing Street, and previously Hochanda, where her distinctive style has reached a wide audience of makers. Her work sits within the Folk Art tradition, often inspired by vintage photography and personal narratives. Combining embroidery with mixed media, Victoria brings together printmaking, painting and drawing to create richly layered textile pieces. Based at Woodend Mill in Mossley, a historic cotton mill nestled in the Saddleworth hills near Manchester, her practice is deeply connected to the heritage of textiles and place. Website: https://www.littlehouseofvictoria.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/littlehouseofvictoria/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/littlehouseofvictoria School of Stitched Textiles https://www.sofst.org/