Show Notes
In today’s podcast, Master Gardener and vegetable expert Gail Pothour talks about cool season greens to grow in your backyard garden during the fall and winter. There’s a human-corrected transcript at the bottom of this newsletter. Among the main points in our conversation: * Cool season vegetable gardening works especially well in USDA zones 7, 8, 9, and 10; but in colder areas you can grow food nearly year round if you plan for it. * Late summer into early fall is the time to pull tired summer crops, work in some compost and fertilizer, and get cool season seeds or transplants in the ground while the soil is still warm. * Most cool season crops mature fast, often in 40 to 60 days, so you can have a real harvest within about two months. * A cold frame, basically a raised bed with a hinged translucent lid, protects plants from frost and heavy rain, and doubles as an insect barrier when you stretch screen across the open top during the day. A must for colder climates. * Floating row covers are one of the most useful tools this time of year. It keeps cabbage loopers and imported cabbage worms from laying eggs on brassicas like kale, broccoli, cauliflower and radishes, and it can even help slow down snails and slugs. * Row covers also help slow-to-germinate seeds like carrots and beets by keeping the soil consistently moist while they sprout. * Beginners are usually better off buying transplants than starting from seed, since crops like lettuce and carrots can be tricky to germinate from seed. * When buying transplants, choose smaller, sturdy, healthy looking plants rather than tall or root-bound ones, since cool season crops don’t love having their roots disturbed. * If you can’t plant right away, move six pack transplants into their own four inch pots with fresh potting soil first. It gives them a chance to build stronger roots before they go in the ground. * For lettuce, stick with loose leaf types like romaine and butter lettuce rather than Iceberg, which struggles to head up properly in home gardens in the warmer areas of USDA Zone 9. Favorites mentioned include Salanova red butter, Pomegranate Crunch, Lola Rossa and the heirloom Forellenschluss (also known as “speckled trout” or “flashy trout back”). * Swiss chard, especially “Bright Lights” with its multicolored stems, is easy to grow, good looking enough for a flower bed, and often overwinters into the next summer. * For kale, go with edible types like Lacinato (dinosaur kale), Tuscan baby leaf, Red Bor, and Red Russian rather than the tough, purely ornamental kales. * Asian greens like Pak Choi and Bok Choy, including a fast growing All America Selection called Asian Delight, are quick to harvest and tend to have fewer pest problems because they’re in the ground for such a short time. * Once brassicas bolt in late winter, the flowers are a magnet for bees and other beneficial insects, and the young flower shoots on kale can be cut and cooked just like broccolini. * For spinach, look for less crinkled varieties like Tyee, which are easier to clean, and treat it as a fast, short lived crop worth succession planting rather than one you let linger in the garden.
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More from Beyond the Garden Basics
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Redwood Barn Nursery owner Don Shor of Davis, California and myself finally got around to putting the 2026 Tomato season to bed…except for the ones that are hanging on for dear life. In today’s podcast, we sing the high notes and low notes of our tomato growing efforts this year, with lots of gardening advice thrown in for good measure. How was your tomato season? Any favorites? Any failures? Any surprises? Let us know in the comments, and be sure to mention where you were doing your gardening this summer. One of the first to comment was Keith, located in the eastern portion of the San Francisco Bay area. He actually commented before the tomato season was ending: “When you two get together to talk about the 2026 tomato season, I'd like to put in a good word for my San Marzano tomato harvest in Contra Costa County. I had a good crop, mostly because the weather wasn't too hot. Tomorrow is sauce-making day! I have a set-up that lets me cook outside.” There’s a complete, human-edited transcript of the podcast near the bottom of this newsletter. Here are the main points of our podcast conversation:
In today’s podcast, I tell a long, drawn out story about what happened the night before my wedding in 1980. Yes, it is a garden story, about the Cecile Bruner rose. But, we quickly turn to a chat with Ben Hanna of heirloomroses.com, who describes how he and his wife came to own the company after leaving corporate life over a decade ago. He says their shared love of gardening and roses, plus the chance to work closer to family, made the business a good fit. He also notes that all five of his children have worked at the nursery in different roles. In the newsletter, it's a list of the best roses for fall blooming color!
In today’s podcast, we talk with Mark Seibert of Sturdi-Built greenhouses in Oregon. The interview covers key considerations for first-time greenhouse buyers, including choosing the right site, with emphasis on sunlight, southern exposure when possible, and local hazards such as trees or lawn equipment. It also discusses heat control and utilities, recommending ventilation, shade cloth, fans, water access, and electrical service with safety protections. Seibert also explains that lean-to greenhouses can work if the roof pitch and site conditions fit, and says a well-built greenhouse can last 20 to 30 years. Growing Hobby Greenhouse Tomatoes in the Winter If you really want to demonstrate to your friends what a great investment your greenhouse is, nothing beats serving them home grown tomatoes...on New Year’s Day. Here’s What You’ll Need to Grow Greenhouse Tomatoes for the Winter and Spring:
The discussion in today’s podcast focuses on pumpkins. Warren Roberts, Superintendent Emeritus of the UC Davis Arboretum, explains that the pumpkin is botanically a fruit, though it is usually eaten as a vegetable. He says the plant belongs to the genus Cucurbita, which is native to the Americas, especially Mexico and the Andes. He describes pumpkin types and notes that many large pumpkins are hybrids, often involving Cucurbita maxima. He contrasts these with the smaller typical pumpkin species, Cucurbita pepo. The conversation also covers the origin of jack-o’-lanterns, whose purpose, Roberts says, came from hollowed-out turnips or rutabagas used to carry coals before matches were available (a handy skill to remember when AI takes over). Short of Garden Room? Grow Mini-Pumpkins! Admittedly, I got a late start on planting pumpkins this year: in early summer (the 4th of July weekend), and I had only one raised garden bed, 4 feet by 8 feet, still available. So, I planted three pumpkin seeds that would eventually produce medium sized pumpkins, the “Jack O’ Lantern” variety, a fruit that gets about 15 pounds. I won’t make that mistake again. Fast-forward three months, and I have a jungle of green vines from those three seeds that have escaped the confines of the raised bed and are now proceeding to swallow the trunks of my adjacent fruit trees. And it looks like the end-result for Halloween decorations will be only four or five medium sized pumpkins. Not much production, considering the sprawl of the vines. And three of them are still green, making me wonder if they will be nice orange orbs ready for carving at the end of the month. Fortunately for gardeners, many seed catalogs and nursery seed racks feature pumpkin varieties that mature in about 90 days and don’t do much sprawling: the miniature pumpkins. There are several advantages to growing pumpkins that weigh less than a pound: quicker maturity, a smaller footprint, and versatility in shapes, color, and uses.