Show Notes
This week Suzy & Nicola are pondering the resurgence of iris - one of the most traditional (and costly) notes in perfumery made modern by exploring it in surprising ways. From one of the all-time classic iris perfumes launching a new version after 114 years, to another historic house who’s just launched a dashingly debonair iris scent; and a brilliantly affordable iris from a high street shop that’s one of our star buys year… There’s a lot to love!
After discussing what else we’ve fallen for lately, and Suzy’s perfume picks from an Australian brand’s stunning new East End boutique; we asked Scott (@blublazer guy) to answer a listener’s question about fragrances to wear while visiting Edinburgh.
On the show:
Guerlain L’Heure Bleu (new) Perfumer Delphine Jelk says she didn’t try ‘to modernise the original L’Heure Bleue from 1912, nor to revisit it, but to pay tribute to a masterpiece and to translate that emotion into the present through a new palette of ingredients.’ A ‘homemade iris tincture created exclusively for this perfume’ is woven into a fresher-feeling ‘ozonic blue sky accord to shiver’, together with ‘the softness of orange blossom’, on a base of vanilla, woods and musk, creating what Jelk calls ‘airy, powdery sensuality’.
Creed Iris Debonair ‘Unlock Iris Debonair, an addictive fougère floral capturing the allure of an aesthete's domain, where every room reveals an intentional art of living. Opening with a luminous stroke of bergamot co-infused with absinthe leaves, at the heart, crisp English lavender unfolds with cool, aromatic clarity. French iris pallida, suffused in pale blue, is magnetic and among perfumery's most precious materials.
Head Notes Bergamot & Absinthe, Pink Pepper, Cardamom
Heart Notes English Lavender, Violet Leaf, Fig Pulp Accord
Base Notes French Iris Pallida, Ambrette, Amberwood’
Boots Last Note Echoes of You 50ml fragrance priced at £12.99 from the debut "Last Note" collection. It features a sparkling pink pepper top note, a middle core of velvety iris and cashmere musk, and a warm amber base.
Top: Pink pepper Heart: Iris, cashmere musk Base: Warm amber
Merchant of Venice Renaissance ‘By Calice Becker, this floral-leathery fragrance is inspired by Renaissance ideals of balance and harmony, housed in a golden-accented Murano glass bottle.
Top Notes: Galbanum, Orange Blossom Absolute, Saffron Heart Notes: Iris, Indonesian Patchouli, Leather, Akigalawood Base Notes: Ambrofix™, Vanilla, Frankincense (Incense), Musk.’
Jo Malone London Rose & Oud Leather Cologne Intense (Harrods) ‘The captivating fragrance is a tribute to the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of patchouli and amber.
Top Notes: oud, leather Middle Notes: damask rose Base Notes: patchouli, amber.’
Thomas de Monaco Luisant Haze (Wild Iris) ‘Luisant Haze expands the Gold Collection of Thomas De Monaco Parfums with a fragrance that approaches sweetness in a different way. At the heart of the composition is a reimagined tuberose. Not opulent or dense, but softened, diffused, and luminous. Sweetness appears here in a new form: airy rather than heavy, radiant rather than indulgent. Notes of fraise des bois, cotton candy, and tonka are lifted by white musks and amber facets, creating a transparent structure that stays close to the skin.’
Givenchy L’Interdit Elixir ‘L'Interdit Elixir evokes a precious talisman infused with power, created to unveil the magnetic strength within every woman. The scent opens with the voluptuous intensity of Black Cherry, illuminated by the delicate bitterness of almond essence. It melts into L'Interdit's iconic bouquet of white flowers, where Orange Blossom, Tuberose, and Jasmine reveal an opulent, almost carnal femininity, enriched by the profound woody nuances of pure oakwood extract. Faithful to Givenchy's art of contrast, L'Interdit Elixir balances shadow and light, sensuality and strength. At its most addictive, a warm, liqueur-like accord unfolds throug
More from On The Scent
We couldn’t do better than quote our brilliant guest Dr Kate Lister’s own bulging bio: ‘a history sleuth with a passion for uncovering the wild tales of the past. You might know me from my bestselling books, “A Curious History of Sex” and “Harlots, Whores, and Hackabouts: A History of Sex for Sale,” where I spill the tea on our ancestors’ sex lives.’ When she’s not ‘deep-diving into historical hanky-panky’, Kate hosts the award-winning History Hit podcast, Betwixt the Sheets, where she and her guests (including an episode with Suzy on historical fragrances) ‘time-travel through the sauciest and most scandalous stories in history.’ But there’s something else that Kate’s become passionate about – other than her eternal quest for the best red lipstick in the world – which makes us love her even more... In this episode we delve deeper into Kate’s burgeoning olfactory obsession, which she fully admits was Suzy’s fault, as Kate purchased the perfumes Suzy spoke about when she was a Betwixt guest – and as we all know, it’s a slippery scented slope from there. You can listen to that episode here: https://shows.acast.com/betwixt-the- sheets/episodes/cleopatra-to-jane-austen-perfumes-of-powerful-women From Kate’s early experiments with perfumes she and her peers dabbed and dabbled with in their youth, through to expressing her personality, and finding fragrances she’s now fallen madly in love with; of course, our conversations took an historical turn. Among our discussions: what people in the past actually smelled like (did they stink, as many people assume?), the cultural controls over what women were supposed to smell of, why we have a deep longing to smell like forest witches, and a disturbing revelation of how and why Lysol was first marketed to women. We think you’ll agree that Kate was an utterly fascinating guest, and we’re determined to get her back for a Part Two! (Once she’s tried even more of the fragrance recommendations Suzy is going to send her. Sorry in advance, Kate... Dr Kate Lister’s Fragrance List: Body shop Dewberry Calvin Klein CK Be Gap Grass (the original) Gap Heaven (the original) Rook Forest Histoire de parfum Encens Roi Histoire de Parfum 1968 Wales Perfumery Celtic Perfume Discovery Set
Can you imagine a whole day dedicated to wandering the streets of Paris and smelling their scented wares? Utter olfactory heaven, right?! Well, recently Suzy had a morning and afternoon to do just this, and in this week’s episode, she and Nicola retrace her steps and recall the gorgeous and inspiring Parisian boutiques she managed to visit, reviewing each of the fragrances sniffed and recounting the memories they evoke.
Fancy a scented tour through unexpected florals (via toasted seeds and cool green leaves), autumnal sunsets in California, walled gardens where a warrior goddess might stroll, impeccably tailored heritage, and a gloriously gilded pop fantasy? Step right this way, because this week Suzy & Nicola are discussing perfumes for taking a calm breath, for making an entrance, for leaning into your own glow, and the pleasure of simply choosing the perfect scent to suit the moment.
What does a fragrance feel like? This week, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn are following their noses into the wonderfully tactile world of perfumery, where a scent can suggest velvet brushing the skin, the smooth swish of nylon, or the crumbly warmth of freshly sliced cake. There’s oudh as soft as autumnal sun-warmed suede, a mineral hush reminiscent of earth after rain, and an aromatic breeze that arrives wind-whipped and bracing before settling into comfort. These perfumes invite you to think beyond notes alone. Some wrap around you; others seem to lift you into cool, open air or draw you into the glow of a city after dark. Join Suzy and Nicola for an episode devoted to sumptuous scents you can almost reach out and touch... The fragrances discussed in this episode are: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Velvet Mood Extrait Velvet warmed by desert sun is the irresistible idea here. Peach skin, delicate suede and deep oud wood unfold in a slow, enveloping caress – soft, sensuous and richly textured, with a sillage that seems to ripple across dunes beneath a starry sky. D.S. & Durga Ain’t That Sweet? The blissful comfort of a freshly sliced cake, with no apology for its sweetness. Cinnamon lends a spicy dusting, fresh floral lily keeps things lifted, and creamy vanilla melts into the skin, leaving a decadent trail that lingers like the last delicious crumb. Pigmentarium Aereo Airy yet grounding, Aereo feels like finding a quiet moment after rain. Soft, mineral cashmeran suggests warm soil, pink pepper brings a flicker of clarity, and soothing myrrh anchors it all in a clean, contemplative stillness. Aesop Unforeseen Aer Wind-whipped and refreshing at first, this aromatic fougère brings rugged, mineral heights to mind. Geranium, lavandin and rosemary create its cool rush of air, while nutmeg lends a textured warmth as the scent settles into comfort. Prada Olfactories Nylon Noir Prada’s iconic nylon becomes something you can almost feel against your skin. Luminous jasmine gives way to a clean, enveloping nylon accord, before musk emerges in the dry-down, leaving a sleek, softly polished trail. Prada Olfactories Troubled Midnight A city after dark, where hot pavement meets cold air and light flares against shadow. Smoky incense and patchouli bring depth to this warm amber-musk, while a date accord adds a softly fruity glow – satin darkness in perfume form.
Suzy & Nicola are back for part two of their Pitti Fragranze roundup, continuing their deep-dive into the perfume launches, houses and ideas that made this year’s Florence fair feel so full of possibility. Having attended Pitti Fragranze for thirteen years, Suzy felt this was one of the most exciting editions yet. Alongside the return of classical perfume structures reinterpreted for contemporary tastes, she noticed a growing confidence in brands drawing upon personal heritage, local materials, food culture, landscape, ritual and memory. In this episode, the pair explore some of the fragrances that most vividly expressed those stories. From a Chinese-French house capturing the transient scent of sun-dried osmanthus, to Korean brands evoking fire-charred ingredients, graceful calligraphy and fine-dining balances of flavour, this episode travels widely through fragrance’s newest creative terrain. There is also a decadent, night-time gourmand journey through Bandra in Mumbai; a woody incense scent from Reserve en Afrique; and two beautifully emotional creations from Italian poet-perfumer Meo Fusciuni. Listen for a perfume that smells of roasted chestnuts, fermented tea and Korean seaweed crisp; a vivid, herbal peach; a “new century” Parma violet growing in a cold spring garden; and a cocoa-rich love story that charts the bitterness and sweetness of heartbreak… https://fragranze.pittimmagine.com/en/events-calendar Reserve en Afrique – Woodoo Reserve en Afrique’s Woodoo is a woody, resinous composition built around the warm, meditative pull of incense, balsams and dry woods. It opens with ginger and olibanum, giving the fragrance both brightness and a slightly peppery, ceremonial character. Labdanum, iris and white flowers arrive at the heart, adding a soft, ambery texture: floral, but shadowed by resin and a certain velvety darkness. The base of musk, benzoin, cedar, tonka bean and cypriol brings a long-lasting warmth, with dry woods, sweet balsams and a gently smoky earthiness. The name suggests ritual, mystery and a connection to wood, smoke and spirituality, and the composition seems to play with all those ideas. This is not necessarily a loud fragrance, but one that gradually develops its presence on skin: incense-lit, softly floral, smooth with tonka, and grounded by a woody, mineral base. Reserve en Afrique draws inspiration from African landscapes, stories and olfactory traditions, translating them into contemporary fine fragrance. Woodoo feels like a particularly atmospheric example of that approach: a scent that uses familiar perfume materials, but lets them tell a more transportive story. Cent.PM – eau de pensée Eau de pensée, the debut fragrance from Chinese-French house Cent.PM, begins with an intensely personal memory: founder Haoyuan recalling the childhood ritual of sun-drying osmanthus blossoms in a field. Rather than trying to make a literal flower portrait, Cent.PM treats the memory as something unstable and shifting. The perfume is intended to capture that instant when an old recollection suddenly brightens into focus, only to blur again as past and present overlap. The opening is vibrant and light-filled, with notes including neroli, pink pepper and mandarin lending a sparkling, green-citrus lift. From there, the fragrance becomes more veiled and contemplative, eventually settling into a warm, close-to-the-skin afterglow. Osmanthus can be a fascinating material in perfume: floral, but also capable of suggesting apricot, tea, suede and a certain honeyed, almost leathery softness. Here, its role appears to be as much emotional as olfactory, carrying the atmosphere of childhood, sunshine, landscape and passing time. Cent.PM approaches fragrance as a meeting point between cultures, materials and memory. Its name and first release suggest an interest in the fleeting, in-between time of late afternoon: a moment for reflection, imagination and sensory recollection. Sisology – Être toi Korean house Sisology’s Être toi