Show Notes
In today's episode the Encyclopedia of Surfing's Matt Warshaw discusses the risks of having surf history chronicled by a single man, who's gotten short shrift on the EOS, how much and how little has changed in surf culture since the first magazine, an examination of pioneering female surf photographers, the first surfer to go at Backdoor, and why he got screamed at (and run over) on his most recent surf trip. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
More from Surf Splendor
In today's show Natural Selection Surf's GM Jason Murray charts his unlikely rise to the photo editor desk at Surfer Magazine in an era where 10,000 slides would pass through monthly, the unknown charger who grabbed a board from a dumpster to nail a cover shot, why perseverance and work ethic can trump talent, the pleasure of discovering a unsurfed wave and the heartbreak of losing it to industrial development, and why a slow death of trad surf culture is giving way to a modern renaissance. Enjoy!
Publisher Steve Pezman joins us to discuss his new book, how to succeed in print publishing in 2022, why modern surfing needs more counter-culture figures, lament the interviews that he still hasn't gotten, and explain why Olympic surfing showcases a false representation of the sport. Enjoy!
In today's show Jon Rose reflects on his 15 years building Waves For Water and reveals the toll of the trauma absorbed from being a first-responding humanitarian worker in disaster zones, the breaking point that followed and how it led to the discovery of one childhood event that had unknowingly propelled his entire life's trajectory, how being proficient and successful is an impediment for receiving help, the increasing value of ritual, and why the work he's doing now is the hardest work he's ever done. Enjoy!
In today's show Icons Of Foam honoree Maurice Cole gives us his "fossil update" on the past 6 years, explains which designs have remained cutting edge for 25 years, details the extremely different requirements when shaping for Curren vs Occy vs Margo vs Taj and which variables net the same end solution, explains the need for surfing to be feral again, why the pursuit for the magic board supersedes all other obligations, and calculates what radical honesty has cost him and the gifts it has returned. Enjoy!
In today's show South Shore icon Jeannie Chesser reveals how her father's boat racing savvy led to her competitive success, the power of love at first sight, how Bob Dylan launched her 53 year career as an artist, the perpetual gift that was Rell Sun, winning Hawaii State Champs alongside her son, why she attributes her resilience to early parental discipline, shares about Todd's little known writing career, and how the solitude of surfing can deepen spirituality but community can be a salve when life seems senseless. Enjoy!