still CURIOUS

What does a perfumer actually do all day? I look back at the unexpected beginnings of my perfume house—from a friend’s bookshop to Le Maroc pour Elle and L’Air du Désert Marocain—and share the everyday reality behind the romantic image of the perfumer. Creation, production, sourcing, packaging and countless connected decisions: all are part of my job. A personal reflection on responsibility, following my passion, and what it means to make a dream come true.

Episode 10 — Niche Perfume: Ask the Right Questions Who owns the brand? Who makes the perfume? And where is it produced? In this second reflection on Pitti Fragranze, I look back at twenty years of change—from lively perfume forums to a crowded world of short clips, shiny bottles, and brand concepts. Information is not scarce. The challenge is knowing what to ask. I share a few simple questions to help you look beyond the story, understand what you’re buying, and leave the final decision to your nose. Because, niche or not, perfume is there to be enjoyed.

Episode 9 — Pitti Fragranze: Let’s Smell Perfume What happens at a perfume fair when people ask about margins and concepts before smelling a single perfume? I take you behind the scenes at Pitti Fragranze in Florence, sharing unexpected encounters, Italy’s love of handmade things, and a few uncomfortable questions about what niche perfumery has become. There is plenty of show, but also warmth, curiosity, and real passion. Meet the people who make me want to return—and discover why my answer is often simply: let’s smell perfume.

What does fashion have to do with perfume? Quite a lot. In this episode, I look at the strange world of fashion imagery — clothes that are spectacular, artistic and fascinating, but not necessarily made to be worn — and ask whether the same thing is happening in perfumery. Perfume fairs and stores are full of beautiful bottles, elaborate presentations and carefully constructed worlds. But sometimes the shell becomes more important than what is inside. A perfume may be impressive, artistic and attention-grabbing — and still not be something you actually want to live with. I also tell the story of a woman I once worked with whose perfume announced her arrival before she even entered the room. The fragrance was beautiful, but there was simply too much of it: instead of her wearing the perfume, the perfume was wearing her. So the take-home question is very simple: Will I wear this perfume — or will this perfume wear me?

The Price of Easy Why do so many modern perfumes feel different, yet somehow strangely similar? In this episode, I look at how perfumery arrived here. Synthetic molecules such as Ambroxan and Iso E Super transformed perfumery — and I use them myself and love them. They are powerful, stable, reliable and wonderful to work with. But mass production, globalization, cost, availability and regulation have gradually pushed much of the industry toward the same highly efficient solutions. Naturals are different. Rose, jasmine, cistus, labdanum and other materials can be expensive, variable, difficult and sometimes frustrating. But they also bring friction, complexity and surprise. I talk about why my own perfumes use both worlds — Ambroxan and cistus, Iso E and jasmine absolute, synthetics and large amounts of naturals — and why that matters. If modern perfumery sometimes feels too polished or predictable, there are two ways out: look backwards to the treasures of the past, or look sidewards toward independent perfumers who can still afford to make things differently.