Show Notes
What happens when a love of wine turns into three vineyards, a restaurant and an entirely new way of thinking about the land?
In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, we’re joined by Pen Naish and Nicholas Brown of Black Estate, one of North Canterbury’s most distinctive family-owned wineries.
Pen and Nicholas took over Black Estate in 2007, but neither started out expecting to build a life in wine. Pen was working as a corporate lawyer, while Nicholas found his way into winemaking through wine retail, vineyard work and vintages across New Zealand, Italy and the Napa Valley.
Nearly two decades later, Black Estate encompasses three organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards plus a fourth leased site, a celebrated restaurant and cellar door, and a philosophy centred on expressing place as clearly as possible.
In this conversation, we explore the evolution of Black Estate, the people who influenced Nicholas’s approach to winemaking, and why North Canterbury has become such an exciting region for pinot noir, chardonnay and emerging varieties.
Nicholas explains the challenges of transitioning established vineyards away from conventional farming, from managing vine vigour and water to understanding what is really happening beneath the soil.
We also get into the role of native yeast, why vineyard biodiversity matters, the use of cattle and regenerative grazing, and how increasing organic matter can dramatically change the amount of water a vineyard can retain.
Then there’s chardonnay.
Despite pinot noir historically taking much of the spotlight in New Zealand’s South Island, Nicholas believes North Canterbury has the ingredients to produce exceptional chardonnay, with its cool nights, naturally low yields and remarkable mix of clay, gravel and limestone soils.
Pen and Nicholas also share what they’re experimenting with next, including chenin blanc, cabernet franc and a high-wire vineyard system designed to allow sheep to graze beneath the vines during the growing season.
A conversation about wine, farming, family and why some of the most interesting things happening in the vineyard start long before the grapes reach the winery.
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About the guests Pen Naish is co-owner of Black Estate and leads the winery’s sales, marketing, restaurant and cellar door. Nicholas Brown is Black Estate’s winemaker and leads its vineyard program. His career has included vintages in Marlborough, Italy and the Napa Valley before returning to North Canterbury. Discover Black Estate:https://blackestate.co.nz/ Black Estate on Instagram:https://www.instagram.com/blackestate/ Pen Naish – New Zealand Wine:https://www.nzwine.com/en/media/our-people/pen-naish/
Chapters 00:00 – The Black Estate story 03:28 – How Nicholas found winemaking 10:29 – Growing Black Estate 14:38 – Converting to biodynamic farming 18:17 – Native yeast and terroir 20:17 – The history of Netherwood vineyard 24:21 – Chenin blanc and cabernet franc 28:39 – Black Estate’s winemaking philosophy 30:02 – Frost and a changing climate 33:24 – Regenerative farming and soil health 38:12 – Why North Canterbury chardonnay stands out 42:11 – What varieties could be next? 43:45 – The future of Black Estate
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