205: Rich DeScenzo - ETS Labs

In this episode, I talk with Ry Richards, winemaker at Chappellet on Pritchard Hill, about his circuitous path from selling wine in high school to learning enology on the job and growing into his current leadership role. Ry describes Chappellet's long‑tenured, family‑driven culture, their production team structure, and the importance of process, communication, and harvest "flow state" in managing complex vintages. We dig into recent and challenging Napa vintages (2011, 2013, 2021, 2023, 2025), shatter and low yields in 2026, and how drought, heat, and smoke have reshaped decision‑making. Ry also details Chappellet's estate and sourced vineyards on the Vaca range, their work with Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, and Bordeaux reds, and why Chenin and site‑specific hillside Cabernet remain central to their identity. Along the way we cover yeast strategy, bottling realities, replanting and trellis choices on steep slopes, the unique trademarked status of Pritchard Hill, and why, despite market headwinds, he stays optimistic and rooted in the idea that wine and visiting Chappellet should fundamentally be about joy.

Jillian Johnson DeLeon - Laffort

In this episode I talk with John "JJ" Julius Naab, assistant winemaker at Matthiasson Wines and founder of Lamitié Wines, about his unconventional path from Chicago brokerage and endurance sports into the wine world. JJ traces his move from finance to Santa Barbara hospitality and DTC sales at Brewer-Clifton and the moment he realized he wanted to make his own wine. We dig into his decision to complete the UC Davis Winemaking Certificate, how that "inch deep, mile wide" technical foundation pairs with on-the-job experience, and what he really learned during his first harvest at Kosta Browne in the middle of COVID and wildfire smoke. We then dive into JJ's Chardonnay-focused Lamitié project: why he chose to be known for one thing, his focus on low alcohol, high-acid chemistry, and what he looks for in vineyards like Charles Heintz (clone 4, cool sites, marine influence). JJ explains his press strategy ("the juice isn't always worth the squeeze"), fermenting Chardonnay in puncheons on full solids, running relatively warm ferments, and then moving the wine to stainless for a second year to tighten texture and enhance reduction in his efforts towards a Burgundy-inspired style that still reflects California fruit. Resources from this Episode L'Amitié Wines

Jennifer Williams joins Jim to talk about her work as a contract winemaker, leading Arrow & Branch and co-owning Zeitgeist Cellars with her husband, Mark Porembsky. They dig into the design and philosophy of the new Arrow & Branch custom crush facility in Oak Knoll—its flexible tank mix, "white glove" service model, and how it's built to handle challenging vintages and a range of client brands. Jennifer explains the stylistic goals and vineyard sourcing for Zeitgeist, including heritage whites like Chenin Blanc and Trousseau Gris, and a Cabernet Franc program that uses barrel fermentation and moderate maceration to shape tannins. Along the way they get into pick-date decisions and herbaceous character in Cabernet Franc, managing slow malolactic fermentations, the realities of custom crush pricing and client expectations, and how small Napa brands are navigating a tougher wine market through relationships, thoughtful growth, and authentic visitor experiences. Resources from this Episode Arrow & Branch

This episode features a conversation with Elias Fernandez, longtime winemaker at Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley. Fernandez, who was raised by migrant farm workers in the Napa Valley, traces his path from studying enology at UC Davis to joining Shafer in 1984, where he became winemaker in 1994. He discusses the winery's evolution under John and Doug Shafer, its shift toward estate-only vineyards with additions like Wildfoote and Altimeter, and the current portfolio, including Hillside Select, TD-9, the One Point Five, and the Wine Spectator–acclaimed Relentless Syrah. The conversation also covers his hands-on approach to extended maceration, his early and enthusiastic adoption of non-Saccharomyces yeasts and crossflow filtration, and his use of AI-based tools like Tule for vineyard water management. Fernandez closes by reflecting on mentoring his son, now assistant winemaker at Shafer, and on the importance of introducing younger generations to wine. Resources from this Episode Shafer Vineyards