
Show Notes
My guest today is food historian Carwyn Graves, a specialist in the foodways and traditions of Wales, and we are talking about Welsh Sheep and Cattle – and their products. Carwyn has written a wonderful book called Welsh Food Stories, published in 2022 by Calon, which explores more than two thousand years of history to discover the rich but forgotten heritage of Welsh foods – from oysters to cider, salted butter to salt-marsh lamb. Despite centuries of industry, ancient traditions have survived in pockets across the country among farmers, bakers, fisherfolk, brewers and growers who are taking Welsh food back to its roots, and trailblazing truly sustainable foods as they do so. We talk about the importance of sheep and cattle in Wales’s physical and cultural landscape, salt marsh lamb, cawl, colostrum puddings, the Welsh and their love of roasted cheese and sheep fancying Cistercian monks – amongst many other things.
Those listening to the secret podcast can hear 15 minutes of extra material including flummery, mutton, laverbread sauce, the traditional skills in the collective cultural memory of the Welsh, the etymology of rarebit/rabbit plus more!
Welsh Food Stories by Carwyn Graves Carwyn’s website Follow Carwyn on Instagram @carwyngraves
Remember: Fruit Pig are sponsoring the 9th season of the podcast, and Grant and Matthew are very kindly giving listeners to the podcast a unique special offer 10% off your order until the end of October 2025 – use the offer code Foodhis in the checkout at their online shop, www.fruitpig.co.uk.
If you can, support the podcast and blogs by becoming a £3 monthly subscriber, and unlock lots of premium content, including bonus blog posts and recipes, access to the easter eggs and the secret podcast, or treat me to a one-off virtual pint or coffee: click here.
This episode was mixed and engineered by Thomas Ntinas of the Delicious Legacy podcast.
Things mentioned in today’s episode The Art of Cookery Made Plain & Easy by Hannah Glasse The First Boke of the Introduction of Knowledge Made by Andrew Boorde Wikipedia page of Welsh sheep breeds Rare Breeds Survival Trust page on Welsh cattle breeds
Previous pertinent blog posts Colostrum (Beestings) with pudding recipe Welsh Rarebit (and Locket’s Savoury) #98 Cawl #155 Welsh Rabbit #183 Scotch Rabbit (1747) #230 English Rabbit (1747)
Previous pertinent podcast episodes A Regional Food Tour with Jenny Linford
Neil’s blogs and YouTube channel: ‘British Food: a History’ The British Food History Channel ‘Neil Cooks Grigson’
Neil’s books: Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald, England’s Most Influential Housekeeper A Dark History of Sugar Knead to Know: a History of Baking The Philosophy of Puddings
Don’t forget, there will be postbag episodes in the future, so if you have any questions or queries about today’s episode, or indeed any episode, or have a question about the history of British food please email me at [email protected], or on twitter and BlueSky @neilbuttery, or Instagram and Threads dr_neil_buttery. My DMs are open.
You can also join the British Food: a History Facebook discussion page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/britishfoodhistory Mentioned in this episode: The British Food History podcast is currently sponored by Netherton Foundry Season 10 of The British Food History Podcast is sponsored by Netherton Foundry, producers of top-quality, British-made cookery equipment. Nestled in rural South Shropshire, Netherton Foundry is a family-run business, headed by husband and wife team Neil and Sue Currie, which takes inspiration from the local iron masters of the 18th and 19th centuries to craft traditional cookware from iron, oak and copper using non-toxic materials.
Their cookware is built to last, whether it be their famous prospector pans (of which I am a proud owner), crumpet rings or their impressive range of outdoor cookware. Netherton Foundry ships to several countries outside of the UK, including the USA and Ca
More from The British Food History Podcast
Hello and welcome to a little bonus minisode all about this year’s Serve it Forth Food History Festival 2026, which is online and on Saturday 17 October 2026. The team, made up of Sam Bilton, Thomas Ntinas, Alessandra Pino and me go through the day’s sessions to whet your appetite before the big day. This episode also includes an interview by Sam Bilton with Kevin Booth of English Heritage ahead of her session on the Bayeux Tapestry, all about the skeleton and facial reconstruction of Conquest Man. We can’t wait to see you there!
It’s time for the now traditional end-of-season postbag episode of The British Food History Podcast, where I (attempt to) answer your questions, read out your comments and mull over your queries. Several photos and illustrations are mentioned in this episode: to see them, visit the accompanying blog post on British Food: A History: www.britishfoodhistory.com I’ll be disappearing for a few months, unless of course, you are a monthly subscriber, where there will be a bonus episode coming up for you to listen to via the secret podcast.
Today I am speaking with food historian Peter Gilchrist and food writer Ross Clarke, who specialise in writing about and rediscovering the traditional foods of Scotland and Wales, respectively. Peter is a returning guest who goes under the name Tenement Kitchen and is the co-host of The Scottish Food History Podcast. Ross is a food and travel writer and author of The Welsh Kitchen on Substack. They both use a bakestone or griddle (or whatever you call yours – there are quite a few names for the usually round, usually iron piece of iron we bake our crumpets, drop scones, muffins and Welsh cakes upon) and I thought we should discuss using them and some of the best of British bakestone bakes. We talk about the place of bakestones and griddles in British food culture, Welsh cakes, bannocks and pikelets, classic writers such as Bobby Freeman and F. Marion McNeill and the applied uses of bacon fat, amongst many other things. Those listening to the secret podcast get plenty of bonus material where we discuss adapting traditional recipes to keep them relevant, how annoyed I get when classic recipes get messed around with, what we get out of recreating historical recipes and buttermilk – plus more. Follow Peter on social media: @TenementKitchen on Facebook, Insta, Bluesky, X and TikTok Follow Ross on Social Media: @theguiri on Insta, @rosswclarke on X and Facebook Tenement Kitchen website The Welsh Kitchen on Substack
Happy 4th of July to my listeners in the USA…and all of those around the world who also celebrate the day! It’s a big one because the US is celebrating 250 years of independence this year. And to mark this special day, I have a special guest, Professor Nancy Siegel, and we are going to talk about the roles food and drink – especially tea and cake – played. Nancy Siegal is Professor of Art History and Culinary History at Towson University, Maryland. She specialises in American landscape studies, underrepresented women artists of the 19th century, print culture, and culinary history of the 18th and 19th centuries. Lucky for me, Nancy was in London, visiting the British Library at the same time I was in London, so we got to record this conversation in person in the breakfast room of Nancy’s hotel, the Harlingford Hotel – a big thank you to them. Nancy has an excellent book that isn’t out until the autumn, but I was lucky enough to get a sneak peek at it, called Political Appetites: The Power of Food in Revolutionary America, published by Johns Hopkins University Press. In that book, Nancy documents the roles food and drinks, especially tea (and its trappings) played in the colonists of North America wanting to sever their ties with Britain, and how food was used to help distance themselves culturally from the British – at first the colonists very much identified as British. We talk about the tax on tea and the Boston Tea Party, tea alternatives, culinary activists such as the women of Edenton, giant independence cakes, Amelia Simmons, and how the people of the new USA used food and drink to culturally distance themselves from the British – amongst many other things. Those listening to the secret podcast get LOADS of bonus material where we discuss George III’s botanist, pride in abundance, the value of hunting out original documents, baking fails, the all-American apple pie, and the function of satire – plus more. Nancy’s page on the Towson University website Political Appetites: The Power of Food in Revolutionary America
Today I am speaking with Maureen Kilpatrick of Guard Archaeology, a Scottish archaeology firm that has dug sites all over Scotland, but today we are focusing on one site called Guardbridge, in Fife, where the timespan the finds ranged from is astounding: from the Stone Age to the 13th century. Several finds were food-related. The site is amazing – there’s an Iron Age fort, there are field demarcations, evidence of food and how it was processed and cooked, as well as lots of evidence of the community moving from a nomadic hunter-gatherer lifestyle to a settled farming one. We talk about the material objects found on site, such as saddle querns, axes and ploughing tools, food remains like emmer wheat, barley, cockles and the indestructible hazelnut, non-slip pottery and the surprisingly late appearance of oats, amongst many other things. Those listening to the secret podcast get some bonus material where we discuss whether modern agriculture with its mechanised ploughs is a help or a hindrance to archaeologists these days. Read the full report: ARO61: Guardbridge, Fife: A multi-period settlement with a multi-vallate fort Follow Guard Archaeology in X/Twitter @GUARD_Archaeol