Show Notes
In some Middle Eastern cultures, people layer up to SEVEN fragrances at a time. Sometimes many more! Never be afraid to play with perfume. (The wonderful thing about fragrance is there is no right or wrong: if you like something, then it’s right. If you don’t, you can wash it off. It’s not a tattoo after all.) One listener recently wrote in with a specific question about layering options throughout the day (and into the evening); but before we get to that, we go back to basics and tell you ALL the things you need to know about layering (without overwhelming yourself or others!) in an easy how-to guide… First: Decide what you are layering for. To make a scent last longer? Or so you can add more nuance / alter an aspect you’re not as fond of (eg you want to make it sweeter, or cut through the sweetness)? Or perhaps to carry a daytime scent through to more a sultry evening vibe? The best way to begin layering is to practice with an existing fragrance you wish had more oomph: Start by selecting a scent you like a lot but wish could last even longer / add more character to. Then, before you spray a single drop… Moisturise, moisturise, moisturise! Particularly in warmer climates. Nothing makes fragrance disappear more quickly than dry skin. Try using a matching body lotion or oil to your fragrance (many have matching products like shower gels as well – the more layers of the scent the better!) Aroma molecules evaporate far slower on well-hydrated skin. For the truly devoted, layering with matching scented body products can create a beautifully nuanced aroma. Try also spraying the scent into your hair, so it wafts around you all day. Hair doesn’t heat up as much as skin, and will absorb the smell more deeply. It also billows beguiling around you all day if you have longer hair. Do a patch test, first, to ensure the fragrance doesn’t discolour your hair (spray on a tissue to be sure!) Be on the lookout for matching hair mists to your favourite perfume - increasing numbers of brands do these, now. Next: add a body mist (again, a huge number of fragrance houses releasing these versions of beloved favourites). Now: Spray your fragrance. This can be done immediately or, if you just want the subtlety of the mist to breathe on its own for the morning, you can carry a travel bottle or decant of an eau de toilette or eau de parfum to top up layer in the day. Suzy’s top tip is to spray a scarf (or jacket lining) with your chosen scent, as fragrance lasts way longer on fabric (like hair, it’s more porous and doesn’t heat up as much as skin, the aroma molecules don’t evaporate as quickly). If you’re wanting to increase the longevity of a perfume that’s proving to be annoyingly fleeting, you may also add an ‘amplifier’ or fragrance booster. Several of these are available, but some of the best known ones are: Escentric Molecules Molecule 01: Primarily Iso E Super, which gives a velvety, cedarwood skin-like scent that boosts longevity and creates a personal musky aroma. Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume: A minimalist scent featuring cetalox, making it a popular choice for adding a cleaner, soft white musky enhancement. DS&DURGA I Don’t Know WhatA unique fragrance enhancer that acts as a "molecular primer" to boost, lengthen, and add depth to other scents with notes of bergamot, Iso E Super, vetiver, and civetone Ellis Brooklyn Iso Gamma Super: A "green chemistry" synthetic booster that acts similarly to enhance woody and amber notes. Glossier You Clive Christian E Cashmere Musk
If you’re wanting to change the character of a scent or add depth to it, consider these options… If it’s too sweet:Look for another scent in your collection (or to add one) that has dominant citrus notes like bergamot, neroli, mandarin, lemon, lime or ‘green’ notes such as galbanum, tomato or violet leaf, green tea, marine/aquatic accords (synthetic recreations of sea-like, watery smells) and aldehydes (often described as being like Champagne bubbles). To soften more aggres
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We couldn’t do better than quote our brilliant guest Dr Kate Lister’s own bulging bio: ‘a history sleuth with a passion for uncovering the wild tales of the past. You might know me from my bestselling books, “A Curious History of Sex” and “Harlots, Whores, and Hackabouts: A History of Sex for Sale,” where I spill the tea on our ancestors’ sex lives.’ When she’s not ‘deep-diving into historical hanky-panky’, Kate hosts the award-winning History Hit podcast, Betwixt the Sheets, where she and her guests (including an episode with Suzy on historical fragrances) ‘time-travel through the sauciest and most scandalous stories in history.’ But there’s something else that Kate’s become passionate about – other than her eternal quest for the best red lipstick in the world – which makes us love her even more... In this episode we delve deeper into Kate’s burgeoning olfactory obsession, which she fully admits was Suzy’s fault, as Kate purchased the perfumes Suzy spoke about when she was a Betwixt guest – and as we all know, it’s a slippery scented slope from there. You can listen to that episode here: https://shows.acast.com/betwixt-the- sheets/episodes/cleopatra-to-jane-austen-perfumes-of-powerful-women From Kate’s early experiments with perfumes she and her peers dabbed and dabbled with in their youth, through to expressing her personality, and finding fragrances she’s now fallen madly in love with; of course, our conversations took an historical turn. Among our discussions: what people in the past actually smelled like (did they stink, as many people assume?), the cultural controls over what women were supposed to smell of, why we have a deep longing to smell like forest witches, and a disturbing revelation of how and why Lysol was first marketed to women. We think you’ll agree that Kate was an utterly fascinating guest, and we’re determined to get her back for a Part Two! (Once she’s tried even more of the fragrance recommendations Suzy is going to send her. Sorry in advance, Kate... Dr Kate Lister’s Fragrance List: Body shop Dewberry Calvin Klein CK Be Gap Grass (the original) Gap Heaven (the original) Rook Forest Histoire de parfum Encens Roi Histoire de Parfum 1968 Wales Perfumery Celtic Perfume Discovery Set
Can you imagine a whole day dedicated to wandering the streets of Paris and smelling their scented wares? Utter olfactory heaven, right?! Well, recently Suzy had a morning and afternoon to do just this, and in this week’s episode, she and Nicola retrace her steps and recall the gorgeous and inspiring Parisian boutiques she managed to visit, reviewing each of the fragrances sniffed and recounting the memories they evoke.
Fancy a scented tour through unexpected florals (via toasted seeds and cool green leaves), autumnal sunsets in California, walled gardens where a warrior goddess might stroll, impeccably tailored heritage, and a gloriously gilded pop fantasy? Step right this way, because this week Suzy & Nicola are discussing perfumes for taking a calm breath, for making an entrance, for leaning into your own glow, and the pleasure of simply choosing the perfect scent to suit the moment.
What does a fragrance feel like? This week, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn are following their noses into the wonderfully tactile world of perfumery, where a scent can suggest velvet brushing the skin, the smooth swish of nylon, or the crumbly warmth of freshly sliced cake. There’s oudh as soft as autumnal sun-warmed suede, a mineral hush reminiscent of earth after rain, and an aromatic breeze that arrives wind-whipped and bracing before settling into comfort. These perfumes invite you to think beyond notes alone. Some wrap around you; others seem to lift you into cool, open air or draw you into the glow of a city after dark. Join Suzy and Nicola for an episode devoted to sumptuous scents you can almost reach out and touch... The fragrances discussed in this episode are: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Velvet Mood Extrait Velvet warmed by desert sun is the irresistible idea here. Peach skin, delicate suede and deep oud wood unfold in a slow, enveloping caress – soft, sensuous and richly textured, with a sillage that seems to ripple across dunes beneath a starry sky. D.S. & Durga Ain’t That Sweet? The blissful comfort of a freshly sliced cake, with no apology for its sweetness. Cinnamon lends a spicy dusting, fresh floral lily keeps things lifted, and creamy vanilla melts into the skin, leaving a decadent trail that lingers like the last delicious crumb. Pigmentarium Aereo Airy yet grounding, Aereo feels like finding a quiet moment after rain. Soft, mineral cashmeran suggests warm soil, pink pepper brings a flicker of clarity, and soothing myrrh anchors it all in a clean, contemplative stillness. Aesop Unforeseen Aer Wind-whipped and refreshing at first, this aromatic fougère brings rugged, mineral heights to mind. Geranium, lavandin and rosemary create its cool rush of air, while nutmeg lends a textured warmth as the scent settles into comfort. Prada Olfactories Nylon Noir Prada’s iconic nylon becomes something you can almost feel against your skin. Luminous jasmine gives way to a clean, enveloping nylon accord, before musk emerges in the dry-down, leaving a sleek, softly polished trail. Prada Olfactories Troubled Midnight A city after dark, where hot pavement meets cold air and light flares against shadow. Smoky incense and patchouli bring depth to this warm amber-musk, while a date accord adds a softly fruity glow – satin darkness in perfume form.
Suzy & Nicola are back for part two of their Pitti Fragranze roundup, continuing their deep-dive into the perfume launches, houses and ideas that made this year’s Florence fair feel so full of possibility. Having attended Pitti Fragranze for thirteen years, Suzy felt this was one of the most exciting editions yet. Alongside the return of classical perfume structures reinterpreted for contemporary tastes, she noticed a growing confidence in brands drawing upon personal heritage, local materials, food culture, landscape, ritual and memory. In this episode, the pair explore some of the fragrances that most vividly expressed those stories. From a Chinese-French house capturing the transient scent of sun-dried osmanthus, to Korean brands evoking fire-charred ingredients, graceful calligraphy and fine-dining balances of flavour, this episode travels widely through fragrance’s newest creative terrain. There is also a decadent, night-time gourmand journey through Bandra in Mumbai; a woody incense scent from Reserve en Afrique; and two beautifully emotional creations from Italian poet-perfumer Meo Fusciuni. Listen for a perfume that smells of roasted chestnuts, fermented tea and Korean seaweed crisp; a vivid, herbal peach; a “new century” Parma violet growing in a cold spring garden; and a cocoa-rich love story that charts the bitterness and sweetness of heartbreak… https://fragranze.pittimmagine.com/en/events-calendar Reserve en Afrique – Woodoo Reserve en Afrique’s Woodoo is a woody, resinous composition built around the warm, meditative pull of incense, balsams and dry woods. It opens with ginger and olibanum, giving the fragrance both brightness and a slightly peppery, ceremonial character. Labdanum, iris and white flowers arrive at the heart, adding a soft, ambery texture: floral, but shadowed by resin and a certain velvety darkness. The base of musk, benzoin, cedar, tonka bean and cypriol brings a long-lasting warmth, with dry woods, sweet balsams and a gently smoky earthiness. The name suggests ritual, mystery and a connection to wood, smoke and spirituality, and the composition seems to play with all those ideas. This is not necessarily a loud fragrance, but one that gradually develops its presence on skin: incense-lit, softly floral, smooth with tonka, and grounded by a woody, mineral base. Reserve en Afrique draws inspiration from African landscapes, stories and olfactory traditions, translating them into contemporary fine fragrance. Woodoo feels like a particularly atmospheric example of that approach: a scent that uses familiar perfume materials, but lets them tell a more transportive story. Cent.PM – eau de pensée Eau de pensée, the debut fragrance from Chinese-French house Cent.PM, begins with an intensely personal memory: founder Haoyuan recalling the childhood ritual of sun-drying osmanthus blossoms in a field. Rather than trying to make a literal flower portrait, Cent.PM treats the memory as something unstable and shifting. The perfume is intended to capture that instant when an old recollection suddenly brightens into focus, only to blur again as past and present overlap. The opening is vibrant and light-filled, with notes including neroli, pink pepper and mandarin lending a sparkling, green-citrus lift. From there, the fragrance becomes more veiled and contemplative, eventually settling into a warm, close-to-the-skin afterglow. Osmanthus can be a fascinating material in perfume: floral, but also capable of suggesting apricot, tea, suede and a certain honeyed, almost leathery softness. Here, its role appears to be as much emotional as olfactory, carrying the atmosphere of childhood, sunshine, landscape and passing time. Cent.PM approaches fragrance as a meeting point between cultures, materials and memory. Its name and first release suggest an interest in the fleeting, in-between time of late afternoon: a moment for reflection, imagination and sensory recollection. Sisology – Être toi Korean house Sisology’s Être toi