Show Notes
How a tiny seed changed the way we work, think, meet, and start the day
Bread gave civilization calories. Beans gave it protein. Olive oil gave it light. Coffee gave civilization somewhere to meet—and a reason to stay awake. Coffee came late to Western civilization. The Greeks didn't have it. The Romans didn't have it. Even Galileo had to stay awake at night looking through his telescope without the help of an espresso machine. Historians no longer like the old idea of the “Dark Ages,” and for good reason. But I have my own definition: the Dark Ages were simply the time before Western civilization discovered coffee.
Coffee Started as a Fruit First, coffee isn't really a bean. What we call the coffee bean is the seed of a fruit, often called a coffee cherry. Coffee plants originated in Africa, especially Ethiopia, where we get the wonderful legend of a goat herder named Kaldi. He supposedly noticed that his goats became unusually energetic after eating the red fruit from a coffee tree. The goats danced, Kaldi tried the fruit, and eventually the local monks discovered it helped them stay awake for evening prayers. It's a great story, although there isn't much evidence that Kaldi actually existed. The history becomes more reliable by the 1400s, when we know people were drinking coffee in Yemen. From there, coffee traveled along trade routes through the Middle East and into the Ottoman Empire. Somewhere along the way, something important happened: coffee stopped being simply a drink and became a reason for people to gather.
Coffeehouses Woke People Up By the 1500s, coffeehouses were appearing in the Ottoman world. People came to drink coffee, but they stayed to talk about business, politics, religion, news, and probably their neighbors. Coffee eventually moved west, and by the 1600s, coffeehouses were spreading across Europe. London's first coffeehouse is generally dated to 1652. Some of these coffeehouses became known as “penny universities.” For the price of a cup of coffee, you could sit, listen, argue, and perhaps learn something. Coffee did not cause the Enlightenment, but it certainly provided a convenient place for people to discuss it. Unlike the tavern, the main drug being served made people more alert instead of less.
The Swedes Took Coffee Seriously Then there were the Swedes. After losing to Russia in 1709, King Charles XII of Sweden spent several years in Ottoman territory. While there, he and his companions developed quite an affection for coffee. When the Swedes eventually returned home, that affection came with them, and coffee became deeply rooted in Swedish culture. Today, the Swedes have fika, which is much more than a coffee break. You stop what you are doing, sit down, usually have something to eat, and most importantly, talk to another person. In other words, coffee provides an excuse to stop working long enough to remember that there are other human beings around you. That sounds remarkably familiar to me.
Coffee in Rainy Alaska I grew up in Ketchikan, Alaska, one of the wettest cities in America. Some years, the rainfall can approach 200 inches, and this isn't always the lovely rain that gently falls outside while you read a book beside the fireplace. In Ketchikan, the rain sometimes blows sideways. Many women of my mother's generation had moved to Alaska because their husbands brought them there. Their families might be thousands of miles away, winter days were short, and sometimes it seemed as though the rain would never stop. This was before SSRIs, but there was always coffee. My mother and her friends would gather at someone's house, sit around the kitchen table, drink coffee, and talk. Looking back as a physician, I think those gatherings served an important purpose. Not because coffee treats depression—it doesn't—but because friendship, conversation, and human connection matter. When the rain was blowing sideways, and you had had enough of your own house, you could always go to Betty's house for
More from Fork U with Dr. Terry Simpson
With all the spices we have access to, it is amazing how bland recipes have become. I have many cookbooks, some from great chefs, television personalities, and friends. What I am always surprised by is how bland the food has become. People seem to think a bit of salt, pepper, maybe onions, and garlic provide the spices one needs. Perhaps it is because some associate spice with heat. Mostly because many have never experimented with some of those great warm spices available. A pinch of coriander, some freshly ground cumin, a little cardamom, or a touch of cinnamon can turn an ordinary dish into something remarkable. And the most astonishing part is that these spices financed voyages around the world, built cities, created fortunes, and caused people to kill one another. Without the spice trade, it is safe to say that the United States, as we know it, would be vastly different from what it is now. The money loaned to the United States, when we were a fledgling country, came from the wealthy spice merchants from what was considered one of the great hyperempires of the world, based in Amsterdam. But before we go to the birth of the United States, let me take you to the meatball.
Tea: The Drink That Built an Empire—and Helped Break One China had the tea. Britain had the appetite. John Hancock had a business to protect.
MesoAmerica and Chocolate In our series looking at foods that built civilizations, today we are going to stay in the Americas with chocolate. Chocolate has been used as currency, consumed by kings, incorporated into religious ceremonies, and prescribed as medicine. Today, it is a multibillion-dollar industry that wants you to believe that eating chocolate is an act of preventive cardiology. I mean, why not? They convinced us to give chocolate to people we love, eat it when we are happy, when we are sad, when only the dog understands us. Don’t feed chocolate to your dog. And we have done all this with a bitter seed that most of us would probably spit out if we tasted it straight from the tree.
I’ve been doing a series about foods that built civilizations. In this episode, we are talking about the potato. It is difficult to imagine that thousands of years ago, people constructed large buildings, managed rivers, built monuments, and created art. We have glimpses of these civilizations through stories, archaeology, and the structures they left behind, but much of their history has been lost. Imagine, we don’t even know where Cleopatra or Alexander the Great are buried, yet we know their stories. As European powers conquered Indigenous peoples, their languages, cultures, and oral traditions were suppressed. When a language disappears, so are the stories preserved within it. Our clues come from archaeology when we uncover a monument, a building, or an ancient settlement. In the Andes, the potatoes they cultivated were not the Russets, Yukon Golds, or fingerlings you find in the store today. Different colors, shapes, and textures. Adapted to survive the elevations, temperatures, and growing conditions. Biodiversity protected their food supply against frost, disease, and changing environmental conditions. If one variety failed, another might survive. The ancient wisdom of diversity that Andean farmers developed over thousands of years was lost when the potato eventually reached Ireland.
In our series about foods that built civilization, we talked a lot about grains, from wheat to corn to rice. Today, we are taking you to the ocean, with the civilizations that salmon built. From California to the interior of Alaska, salmon, a staple, allowed people to settle into villages, develop complex social networks, art, and trade routes. Those trade routes are as large as the ones in the Mediterranean. Some tribes built communal homes and developed complex art and language. Some were Seafaring tribes with canoes up to 60 feet long that traveled across oceans. All because there was a fish that would return in large numbers to streams and rivers, reliably, predictably. So predictable, the people could build their lives around salmon runs. So much so that some built a calendar not only with lunar cycles, but also with the return of the salmon. Civilizations have always gathered around food and water. The Mediterranean connected people who grew wheat and olives, giving people time to make wine, mine copper, build ships, trade with their neighbors, and occasionally go to war with them. Asia had rice and grain near the great river systems. The reliable calories from rice and grains allowed villages to become cities and to travel by water to trade. Today we are going to my home, from the Ventura River in California to my home state of Alaska.