When Chemistry Meets Creativity - A Beginner’s Guide to Synthetic Perfume Materials
The Perfume Making PodcastShow Notes
Karen often hears from people who work exclusively with natural materials in their fragrances but are beginning to notice the limitations, whether it’s their blends smelling too much like aromatherapy products or lacking longevity. If you want to move past these challenges and create fragrances that compare to commercial ones, the key is to incorporate synthetics. In this episode, Karen will share her recommendations for ten synthetic materials to add to your toolkit that will elevate your perfume creations to the next level.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Hedione is a synthetic material that closely resembles jasmine, but smells lighter. Karen gives you an overview of this material, which is impossible to overdose, and changed perfume history forever.
Musks are one of the biggest gaps when you’re only working with naturals and it is synthetic musks that give perfume longevity. There are so many synthetic musks that can solve this problem. Karen shares her recommendations for the best synthetic musks to use.
The ‘Heart of the Floral’ is a fragrance made up from a trio of materials, and one of them, muguet, is only available as a synthetic. However, there are a few variations. Karen breaks down the differences between them.
Sandalwood is a widely used material in perfumery, but if you want it to go all the way from the base to the top, you will have to rely on synthetics. Karen explains why and gives her recommendations for materials.
BEST MOMENTS
“Unless you start using synthetics, you're not going to learn how they work.”
“Synthetics don’t replace naturals, they enhance them.”
“There are so many synthetic materials out there that it can be overwhelming to explore them for the first time. But, with the right approach, understanding them can add a new dimension to your perfume making.”
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Perfume Making 101
Studio Classes
Episodes on materials
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
YouTube
This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/
More from The Perfume Making Podcast
This isn’t the usual New Year’s episode about planning, vision boards, and big 2026 goals. Instead, Karen looks at what happens when you need to do less, and how that can be the key to building a more robust perfume or creative business without burning out. She talks honestly about overcommitting (including with AI‑fuelled planning), why she’s simplifying her offers and pressing pause on some things, and how she’s re‑shaping her work around the life she is actually living. If you’re tired of the constant hustle but still want your business to thrive, this episode is perfect. To keep getting access to new content from Karen in 2026, sign up for her newsletter here: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk KEY TAKEAWAYS ● Be honest about how much work you can handle. ● Your creative energy naturally rises and falls. Accept that, go with the flow, and stop beating yourself up about not getting absolutely everything done. ● Our culture says, “new year, new you,” but winter is a season of rest and introspection, so it’s okay if big goals don’t feel realistic right now. It´s OK to set new goals in other months too. ● Drop things that drain you without generating true benefits. Ask yourself, do I have to do this now, or is it just another shiny object or something that is fun and distracts you from doing the more boring things? ● Don´t try to run on empty; make time to refuel. Hobbies, time with family and friends, travel, learning new skills, exercise, and other things that light you up, all top up your creative energy. BEST MOMENTS “I am planning on actually doing less this year on purpose.” “Creativity is not something that you can just squeeze out. You have to let it flow." “Really tap into you and how you work best – that is going to keep you in this for the long-term.” EPISODE LINKS: Bulgaria Perfume Workshop: https://www.roseoverdose.com/perfume-plants-of-bulgaria IAO Awards: https://thegoldenpears.com/home In Person Classes: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/studio-classes Previous New Year episodes - https://podcasts.apple.com/mt/podcast/reflections-for-growth-learning-from-2024-to-build/id1693602939?i=1000682798977 and https://podcasts.apple.com/es/podcast/making-the-most-of-2024/id1693602939?i=1000640841400 VALUABLE RESOURCES Studio Classes: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/studio-classes Materials Mastery: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/materials-mastery Getting Started Guide: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/podcast-getting-started-guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind: https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/artisan-perfumery-mastermind
Ever wondered why everyone’s suddenly talking about layering their favourite scents? In this special year-end episode, Karen dives into the layered world of fragrance - examining the trend that’s gone from perfume-enthusiast secret to must-try for, indie creators, everyday scent lovers and brands. Discover how scent layering is shaking up traditions, what it means for your personal perfume wardrobe, and why this mix-and-match approach is more than just a passing fad.
It’s easy to think that the best way to stay ahead in business is by watching your competitors and lowering your prices when they do. But as Karen explains in this episode, that common fear-driven reaction often backfires. Responding to competition by undercutting your value can leave you overwhelmed, undervalued, and unsure of your direction.
This week Karen follows on from the conversation she had about learning to evaluate your perfumes. She covers something that is done as a matter of course in the industry. It's something a lot of people, especially when they're new, don't really get - making more than one version of your fragrance. Or, in industry terms, making a mod.
Do you really know if your fragrance works? Or are you just hoping for compliments? In this episode, Karen reveals why friends and family are not likely to be giving you the feedback you really need. She shares the essential steps needed to truly evaluate your perfume - like a pro. Karen takes you through setting a clear brief and mastering technical checkpoints. She shares the tools and mindset that separate hobbyists from serious creators.