Show Notes
I am incredibly honoured to celebrate 80 episodes with these fantastic women who teach me a thing or two about this niche part of fashion history that starts with men in a pajama and ends with women in trousers. In conversation with Janine D'agati and Hannah Schiff, vintage fashion collectors, historians and authors of 'From Sleepwear to Sportswear, How Beach Pajama's Reshaped Women's Fashion'. We get into how this is the first academic text on the subject, the origin of Pajamas and it's east meets west journey, the smoking suit, how the rise of the beach holiday was a catapult for opulent resort dressing, the controversy of the beach pajama, the beginning for Coco Chanel, differen't beach pajama styles, the incredible beach pajama designer of the time Mary Nowitzky, how the trouser finally became normal for women, why the term beach pajama faded out, how the beach pajama transformed women and culture, and so much more <3
I can not reccomend this book enough if you love fashion history this is an amazing read with so many incredible archive images to go along with it. Buy it here. Follow these ladies on instagram here. To support this podcast and listen to full episodes you can subscribe to my patreon for £3.00 a month. www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast Memberships include weekly episodes with incredible guests. Cant not map, a map that layers on top of your google maps that has pins of vintage shops in cities all over the world. Editing the doom scroll, a monthly newsletter that curates that best vintage online from vintage dealers all over the internet, nothing over £500, no affiliates so this is an honest shopping guide!
Thanks for listening and supporting cant not <3
More from Cant Not
In conversation with César Rodríguez Salinas the Textile and Fashion Conservator at Kunstmuseum Den Haag. César gets into what led him to conservation and the common misconceptions of the job of a conservator. How every garment requires a different assessment. The challenges of textile dyes and how they can define a garment's origin. How much science is involved in a garments analysis. The responsibility of a conservator and times he accepts he can not do anything to a garment. Does he see fashion as art? How being a conservator changed the way he looks at clothes today. What makes something worth preserving and so much more <3
In conversation with founders Ali and JP of KURB on giving people the tools to search for designer vintage as precisely as possible, viewing the archive resale ecosystem as an entity that is in constant flux, how vintage sellers can increase visibility of their products, the specific criteria they look for in vendors, how luxury fashion dropping the ball lately has carved a path for indie designers to come through, the divine delusion of small brands, whats changing in the archive space, niche designer subcultures, cultural gatekeeping in menswear discords, the Phia scandal, exploring ways to be more than just a search tool, launching an app and so much more <3
In conversation with Molly Rogers, the costume designer behind And Just Like That and the The Devil Wears Prada 2. For decades, Molly worked side-by-side with Patricia Field, starting at her famous downtown New York store before helping define a generation of style across the entire Sex and the City universe. We get into what brought her to the Pat Field store in 1984, who was shopping at the store back then and the energy in the city, how the store was the answering machine of the 80s, what it was like when she first started to work in costume with Pat, if there was an expectation of designer clothes on the first season of Sex and the City, where some of the iconic pieces came from, how bringing the gate kept fashion industry to audiences around the world contributed to the shows cult status, how she approached the legacy sequals she designed, When she chooses to have something made or use vintage, the first vintage piece she bought for Prada 2, how working with designers has changed since when she started, the importance of working your way up from the mailroom to the top -- and so much more!!
In conversation with Jakub and Ali of the vintage store 3AEM. We go back to their childhood stories of what brought them to fashion, the journey that brought them together to build 3AEM, Jakub's experience as a designer and decision to slow it down, the work and inspiration that goes into their vintage drops, the importance of accessible price points, their approach to mixing labels and eras, why their is a hype around archive and how its driven up the price points, is the archive space becoming a subculture? Thoughts on the designers that will be trending in vintage, their favourite pop culture moments where someone wore vintage, how vintage sits amongst contemporary fashion, current designers they are looking at, what's next for 3AEM and so much more!
In conversation with Judy Berger of Judy's Vintage Fair, The Big Flea Market, Vintage Furniture Flea and the Botanical Market -- Judy gets into the early days of putting on markets in London and how that lead to vintage fair's touring the UK's university towns. The novelty of using Myspace to advertise her market. How vintage purists had an issue with her selling stuff from the 80s in the early 00s. The work and also the fun that goes into putting on a market. How competitive the market business became. The effects of Covid. Her appreciation for the new gen of Markets (Shoutout to Stella of Second Life!). Reviving the old Kensington Market and shining a light on the history of that market which started in the 60s in London. The stories of the old Kensington Market Vendors. What to expect at their upcoming market there for London Fashion Week and so much more <3