Show Notes
In case you need a refresher course, here are some points about the benefits of using compost in your garden, according to the UC Master Gardeners of Alameda County: • Improves Soil Structure (Tilth): Lightens heavy clay soils and adds structure to sandy soils. • Saves Water: Increases the water-holding capacity, reducing runoff and water usage. • Feeds Plants & Soil Life: Adds slow-release nutrients and boosts beneficial microorganisms and earthworms. • Balances pH: Helps to buffer and balance soil pH (acidity/alkalinity). • Reduces Needs: Lowers the need for commercial soil conditioners and chemical fertilizers. • Protects Plants: Encourages healthy root structure, helps control erosion, and acts as a mulch to reduce weeds and moderate soil temperature. How to Use Compost (UCANR Recommendations) • As a Soil Amendment: Mix 1–4 inches of compost into the top 6–10 inches of soil before planting. • For New Beds: Apply 3-4 inches of compost and turn into the soil. • As Top Dressing/Mulch: Apply 1-3 inches around established plants, trees, and shrubs (keeping it away from the stems). • For Lawns: Spread a 1/2 inch layer of compost over the lawn in the spring. • When to Apply: Fall is best for improving soil structure, but it can be applied in spring to prepare for planting. • Materials: Composting kitchen and yard waste helps prevent landfill waste and acts as a nutrient-rich fertilizer. For the Snarkies among you who answered, “And compost mulch provides a place for cats to poop.” Hey! Get your head out of the toilet. We covered how to thwart that in a previous newsletter. But if you think composting is a lot of work, what if I told you that you can make compost using just two ingredients, and you don’t have to turn the pile, ever! Now that I have your attention, here’s what Kellie Hallenbeck and Judy McClure had to say in a recent Sacramento County Master Gardener newsletter: “The average person in the U.S. consumes about three cups of coffee per day, with landfills receiving 75% of those spent coffee grounds. Deep in landfills, grounds are robbed of oxygen, so they cannot decompose aerobically like they do in a compost pile or worm bin. Instead, coffee grounds are subject to anaerobic decomposition that can produce large amounts of methane. Methane is a greenhouse gas contributing to global warming, 25 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Composting with coffee grounds is easy if you remember they are high in nitrogen and considered green for compost purposes. Just add a good supply of carbon-rich material, like dried leaves and shredded paper. Too much nitrogen can cause the release of ammonium gas and cause foul odors. At the same time, too little nitrogen will slow down the decomposition process. Follow your routine of food scraps and grass clippings by mixing 1 to 2 volumes of “browns” (dry, woody materials) to 1 volume of “greens” (moist, green materials, filters with grounds). Add water and turn the mixture to add air.” (Or, don’t turn. Read today’s podcast transcript interview further on in this newsletter (or listen to it, above) with Master Gardener and composting expert Susan Muckey to find out the why and how). “In 2022, the Compost team experimented using only coffee grounds as the “greens” and dried leaves as the “browns” to see how the final product compares with traditional methods. Too many coffee grounds were added, resulting in the pile being too wet. The Compost team is trying again with a bin made of a hog/chickenwire ring. The pile was demoed at the March 2026 Open Garden. During you next FOHC visit, stop by the Compost area to check on the process. How can you help to keep coffee grounds from entering the landfill? Take a bag (or 2 or 3) for your home garden during Open Garden Days. Small changes add up over time. Just think: by adding grounds to your compost, you will be reducing waste and protecting our environment, all the while having your coffee too.” A 4’×5’ sheet of 6-inch Concrete Reinforcement
More from Beyond the Garden Basics
The high points of our chat with Lance Walheim in today’s podcast: * Pick the right variety first. Sweet types like navel oranges struggle indoors, so go with acidic fruit that ripens with less heat. * Meyer lemons, kumquats, Bearss limes and calamondins are the best bets. They’re compact, bloom often and fit in containers. * Regular lemons and grapefruit can survive indoors, but don’t expect much edible fruit from them. * Moving trees in and out is workable, but you need a transition period. Going outside in spring, start in shade after the last frost and increase light over several weeks. Coming inside, reverse the process and reduce light gradually. * The shock is real. Outdoor humidity can top 50 or 60 percent, while a heated house can drop to around 10 percent.
Redwood Barn Nursery owner Don Shor of Davis, California and myself finally got around to putting the 2026 Tomato season to bed…except for the ones that are hanging on for dear life. In today’s podcast, we sing the high notes and low notes of our tomato growing efforts this year, with lots of gardening advice thrown in for good measure. How was your tomato season? Any favorites? Any failures? Any surprises? Let us know in the comments, and be sure to mention where you were doing your gardening this summer. One of the first to comment was Keith, located in the eastern portion of the San Francisco Bay area. He actually commented before the tomato season was ending: “When you two get together to talk about the 2026 tomato season, I'd like to put in a good word for my San Marzano tomato harvest in Contra Costa County. I had a good crop, mostly because the weather wasn't too hot. Tomorrow is sauce-making day! I have a set-up that lets me cook outside.” There’s a complete, human-edited transcript of the podcast near the bottom of this newsletter. Here are the main points of our podcast conversation:
In today’s podcast, I tell a long, drawn out story about what happened the night before my wedding in 1980. Yes, it is a garden story, about the Cecile Bruner rose. But, we quickly turn to a chat with Ben Hanna of heirloomroses.com, who describes how he and his wife came to own the company after leaving corporate life over a decade ago. He says their shared love of gardening and roses, plus the chance to work closer to family, made the business a good fit. He also notes that all five of his children have worked at the nursery in different roles. In the newsletter, it's a list of the best roses for fall blooming color!
In today’s podcast, we talk with Mark Seibert of Sturdi-Built greenhouses in Oregon. The interview covers key considerations for first-time greenhouse buyers, including choosing the right site, with emphasis on sunlight, southern exposure when possible, and local hazards such as trees or lawn equipment. It also discusses heat control and utilities, recommending ventilation, shade cloth, fans, water access, and electrical service with safety protections. Seibert also explains that lean-to greenhouses can work if the roof pitch and site conditions fit, and says a well-built greenhouse can last 20 to 30 years. Growing Hobby Greenhouse Tomatoes in the Winter If you really want to demonstrate to your friends what a great investment your greenhouse is, nothing beats serving them home grown tomatoes...on New Year’s Day. Here’s What You’ll Need to Grow Greenhouse Tomatoes for the Winter and Spring:
The discussion in today’s podcast focuses on pumpkins. Warren Roberts, Superintendent Emeritus of the UC Davis Arboretum, explains that the pumpkin is botanically a fruit, though it is usually eaten as a vegetable. He says the plant belongs to the genus Cucurbita, which is native to the Americas, especially Mexico and the Andes. He describes pumpkin types and notes that many large pumpkins are hybrids, often involving Cucurbita maxima. He contrasts these with the smaller typical pumpkin species, Cucurbita pepo. The conversation also covers the origin of jack-o’-lanterns, whose purpose, Roberts says, came from hollowed-out turnips or rutabagas used to carry coals before matches were available (a handy skill to remember when AI takes over). Short of Garden Room? Grow Mini-Pumpkins! Admittedly, I got a late start on planting pumpkins this year: in early summer (the 4th of July weekend), and I had only one raised garden bed, 4 feet by 8 feet, still available. So, I planted three pumpkin seeds that would eventually produce medium sized pumpkins, the “Jack O’ Lantern” variety, a fruit that gets about 15 pounds. I won’t make that mistake again. Fast-forward three months, and I have a jungle of green vines from those three seeds that have escaped the confines of the raised bed and are now proceeding to swallow the trunks of my adjacent fruit trees. And it looks like the end-result for Halloween decorations will be only four or five medium sized pumpkins. Not much production, considering the sprawl of the vines. And three of them are still green, making me wonder if they will be nice orange orbs ready for carving at the end of the month. Fortunately for gardeners, many seed catalogs and nursery seed racks feature pumpkin varieties that mature in about 90 days and don’t do much sprawling: the miniature pumpkins. There are several advantages to growing pumpkins that weigh less than a pound: quicker maturity, a smaller footprint, and versatility in shapes, color, and uses.